Aconitum hemsleyanum ‘Red Wine’

CLIMBING WINE MONKSHOOD

Aconitum hemsleyanum ‘Red Wine’
CLIMBING WINE MONKSHOOD

Aconitum hemsleyanum ‘Red Wine’ wows with large hanging clusters of deep wine red, hooded flowers in late summer and autumn.
As it climbs on long twining stems.

Stunning deep wine-red Monkshood flowers

So Aconitum hemsleyanum ‘Red Wine’ is the stunningly beautiful maverick in the Monkshood family – it is glorious deep, shining claret coloured, rather than blue.
And the helmeted flowers come in long hanging clusters of large blooms, instead of spires – just spectacular.

Twining climber

A maverick too because it climbs rather than stands up sentinel straight.
Aconitum hemsleyanum ‘Red Wine’ scrambles rather like a Sweet Pea, supported by its own tendrils, as it wanders some 3m. up into, or across, a supporting shrub, trellis, tripod or small tree.

To decorate a spring blooming shrub with autumn glory too

It is breathtakingly beautiful to let it decorate a spring flowering shrub with wine red spires in autumn. Win-win – two seasons of beauty for the price of one space.
The climbing stems are light, and do not smother or cause any harm to the host shrub.

Attractive foliage

The foliage of Climbing Wine Monkshood is also pretty, with glossy, dark green, maple like leaves.
The leaves are not heavy and do not smother the host shrub.
Then the leaves turn butter yellow in autumn, so also contributing extra beauty late in the season, as they spangle the supporting shrub. Another win-win.

Easy growing & low maintenance in the company of shrubs

Aconitum hemsleyanum ‘Red Wine’ is a hardy, easy and low maintenance perennial when it is given its preferred position.
It likes to grow in the company and dappled shade of nearby shrubs or small trees, that it can scramble through.
Aconitum hemsleyanum is native to the dappled light conditions of open woodland in central and western China.

Very frost hardy

So it is extremely frost hardy too.

Enjoys clay based & heavier soils

Thrives in most soils in the light shade of trees, but grows particularly well in clay; heavier, clay based soils; and soils that have plenty of rotted organic material such as old leaves – it is a plant of woodlands.
‘Red Wine’ also enjoys some lime, unless you already garden on limestone soil.
And likes plenty of tucker to make those spectacular autumn trusses of flowers – so feed it whenever you are feeding the roses or peonies – several times a year.

Never eaten by rabbits, deer or possums

Seems those nasty creatures got the memo about not eating Aconitum – they never touch it.
Though some Aconitums are still used in traditional Chinese medicines – but clearly dosage and choice of plant needs to be very carefully and wisely done. Do not try this at home.
Fortunately Aconitum has a bitter taste, so no temptation.

Though the flowers are useful for bees

Clever Aconitums make sure there is no toxin in their pollen and nectar – so the bees come flocking to pollinate them.

Low maintenance

The only maintenance work is to shear the spent stems to the ground in winter, and feed them every time you have fertilizer or compost to hand.
Caution: Wear gloves when dividing the plant, or cutting the flower spires, to protect yourself from the sap – all parts of plant are toxic, and should not be ingested. Fortunately it is not tempting to eat, either for rabbits, kangaroos or possums, who all leave it alone.

SEED SOWING ADVICE: Warm: Cold: Cool sequence

Seeds can be sown directly in the garden in autumn or winter, and left for the cold of winter to break the natural seed dormancy
OR
Sow in punnets indoors at any time when suitable temperatures can be provided.
Caution: Wear gloves when handling the seed, plants, leaves, roots or flowers of Aconitum. Though there is little toxic risk from the seed, it is always wise to treat all Aconitum with respect at any stage.
Do not ingest.

Sow seed indoors for quicker response: First sow the seeds in a punnet on the surface of good quality seed raising mix.
Then cover the seeds to a depth of 5cm with fine sieved seed mix or fine vermiculite.

Now moisten by standing the punnet in a shallow water bath, and allow the moisture to percolate up to the surface from below. This will ensure the mix is thoroughly moist but not drenched.

Label the punnet with the name and date sown.
Now place the moist, sown punnet in a warm, well-lit position for 14 days (but no direct sunlight).

Temperatures of approx. 18-22°C are best for this stage.
You can use a temperature controlled heat mat if you have one.

Continue to keep the punnet moist by misting from a spray water bottle as required.
Covering the punnet with a clear plastic cover, plastic bag, or glass helps to maintain consistent moisture and prevent drying out.

Now give a pretend winter

For best germination seeds now need a period of chilling (a pretend winter) – so wrap the sown, moist punnet in cling-wrap or a plastic bag and place in fridge (not freezer) for 6 weeks.

Then take out, unwrap punnet, and keep moist in COOL well-lit position again.
Seeds need good light to sprout, but the punnet should not be in direct sunlight.
Temperatures of 10-15°C are best for optimum germination at this stage.
Seeds germinate in approx. 30 days.
Then it is worth returning the moist punnet to the fridge for another 6 weeks, as more seeds will often germinate after they feel they have had 2 winters.

Direct sow in the garden: Or sow seeds directly in garden in autumn/winter and leave to get the required chilling from winter nature before germinating in the spring.
The germination rate of sown seed is usually even better after experiencing 2 winters

Seed Count: 10 seeds per packet approx.
(We always aim to exceed the stated count and give a generous serve)

*** Please note: All parts of Aconitum plants are toxic if eaten. Wear gloves when handling.

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